Gauge, on about it again.

We had a great time at the retreat. Both my Make It Fit classes went very well. Several sweaters that don't fit were checked out. By the end of class I didn't even have to explain what wasn't working. The knitters did it themselves. Guess what the #1 reason for an incorrect fit is? I bet you know.
GAUGE. Argghh. I know, it's a constant companion. Here's an excerpt from the YarnOver SleepOver Retreat booklet. I know knitting teachers do bang on about this!! Maybe this will help explain why it's so important.

MAKE IT FIT

Here is a common knitters lament: “I knit it exactly as the pattern said and it still didn’t turn out the right size”. Frustrating indeed. Did you check your gauge? Can I say the “S” word? Did you make a Swatch? A nice big one?

The reason many garments don’t fit when completed is because the knitter’s gauge did not match the pattern gauge. Garments are built on a certain size of stitch. Imagine each stitch as a little box. For example, let’s say your particular pattern calls for a stitch gauge of 20 sts = 4”/10cm. Break it down to 5 stitches = 1 inch.

Below are 5 boxes representing 5 stitches and 1” width, knit at different gauges. If you were knitting a 40” sweater you can see the difference gauge makes.

Do not despair. This can be fixed. I am also a knitter who does not usually knit to gauge. It’s perfectly normal.

Do’s & Don’t’s

Do Not try to change how you knit. Saying you’ll knit tighter or looser will last about 5 minutes!! Then you will be knitting in your normal manner. There is a better way.

Adjust your gauge by adjusting your needles.

· If the pattern calls for the gauge of 5 sts = 1” on a 4.5mm needle and you are getting 5½ sts = 1” then your stitches are a little smaller. You are getting more stitches in every inch. Bump your needle size up to 5.0mm and see if you are closer to the pattern gauge.

· If you are getting 4½ sts = 1” your stitches are a little big (fewer stitches in every inch). Try again with a 4.0mm needle which will make your stitches smaller.

Understanding if you are a tight knitter or a loose knitter helps you get started on adjusting your knitting for better fitting garments.

Swatches can Lie!

Oh, no. This is terrible. Swatches can lie. Not for everyone but maybe for you and definitely for me. If you find that lots of your garments are bigger or smaller than you thought they would be, read on.

When you knit a swatch are you very careful? Are you looking at every stitch, knitting slower than usual? Are all your stitches perfectly formed and looking beautiful. Do you knit a large swatch? What happens when you knit while chatting with a friend, or as your mind wanders, or while watching TV?

You got it. Your gauge can change. When I teach classes I have the knitters work a swatch, cast on for their sweater and work several inches of their top down sweater. Then we check the gauge again. In every class, one third of the knitters have found that their gauge has shifted. Usually they have loosened up and every once in a while someone has tighten up.

What to do?!
1.  Rip back and start again with smaller or larger needles to get the correct gauge. I think we've all done this one.

2.  Continue on and work to a smaller or larger size to compensate for the gauge shift.

3.  For knitters working out of one of the Cabin Fever multi-gauge books there is a good solution. Continue to work with your New gauge and change to a new set of stitch numbers that correspond to your New gauge.

There's a very good reason I write these books. I don't get gauge and, I admit it, my gauge changes.

Say I started out working 20 sts = 4" (same as 5 sts = 1") according to my swatch. Now I'm 4" down my top down sweater and I discover that I'm really working at 18 sts = 4" (4.5 sts = 1"). Yikes, my sweater is going to be too big. At this point I can continue knitting and working my raglan increases as usual, towards the stitch numbers for the Bottom of the Yoke. But now I'm going to work to the stitch numbers for my New gauge instead of my original gauge (especially the Back) so that my sweater will fit.

The top chart is the number of stitches for the Bottom of Yoke for my size, assuming I'm working at 20 sts = 4" gauge (top chart). At the Bottom of the Yoke, in my original gauge, I want to knit until my Front has 44 sts, Sleeve has 60 sts and Back has 88 sts. BUT my gauge has shifted to 18 sts = 4". So I'm going to move to the line of stitch numbers for my New gauge (see shaded line on bottom chart).

Now, working in my New gauge, I'm going to work until my Back is 78 sts (instead of 88 sts at original gauge). This will ensure that my Back, and therefore my Front, will fit for my size at the New gauge which I will maintain for the rest of my sweater. I'm knitting at a looser gauge than originally planned, so I will work my Back and Front with less stitches to get my size.

This works for many, many knitters. It saves the stress of ripping out or recalculating all your numbers. Just shift to a new line of stitch numbers that correspond to the gauge you are now knitting.

Your swatches may be wonderfully truthful. You may get gauge and maintain it. I hope you do. But if you don't, these multi-gauge books have an added advantage for you.

These numbers are out of one of the Need A ... series of Multi-gauge books by Cabin Fever. http://www.cabinfever.ca/knittersbooks.html ;

www.patternfish.com/collections/73

Questions? I'm sure you have some.

-Deb

 Thanks for your comments. I really appreciate hearing from you.



Gauge, why you need to get it.

What is the biggest stumbling block to a sweater that fits? Leave a comment. I'd like to hear what your stumbling block is.

One of the basic reasons is gauge. There is a myth that the needles recommended by the yarn company are the needles needed to get gauge for every knitter. Not True. There is also the idea that most knitters get gauge. Also Not True.

For the record, I don't get gauge. Not ever. I am a loose knitter so if I used the needles recommended by the yarn company everything I knit would be too big. I have knit lots of big sweaters, sometimes really, really big. Do most of your garments end up bigger or smaller than you had hoped?

Back to Basics.  Gauge works like this:

The yarn company says that this yarn knits to 20 sts = 4" which is the same as 5 sts = 1".
If you are getting 4 1/2 sts to 1", when the pattern calls for you to knit 5 sts to measure 1", you are knitting 4 1/2 sts which measures 1", plus 1/2 st more. Now your 5 sts measures more than 1". Now your garment is big.
If you are getting 5 1/2 sts = 1" and the pattern asks you to knit 5 sts, you knit 5 sts which measures less than 1" for you. Now your garment is small.

WORK A SWATCH. It contains good information. Measure your own particular gauge with the needles recommended. It's good to know which way you lean, loose or tight. If you are off gauge by 1/2 stitch per inch, your adult sweater is 4" bigger or 4" smaller (eek!). It matters!

DO NOT CHANGE HOW YOU KNIT. "I'm going to knit tighter" works for about 5 minutes, until you relax and then you are back to knitting in your regular way. I will address this mysterious phenomenon in the next post.

CHANGE YOUR NEEDLES. I'm a loose knitter so I usually work with needles 1 to 2 sizes smaller than recommended on the ball band. If you are a tight knitter you may have to work with needles 1 size bigger. Continue with your swatch to see if you are closer to the gauge required by the pattern.


Next post:  Swatches Can Lie! Oh, No.

-Deb
P.S. Yes, new yarn and worsted too. I love worsted weight yarn the very bestest! I need to knit something up to show you. So far only grey is in production but more colours coming, one at a time, starting in September. Something to look forward to.

Need A PLUS Cardigan? is now available!

Cabin Fever's newest book "Need A PLUS Cardigan?" is at the printer's as we speak. I hope to be picking it up towards the end of next week. If you'd like to pre-order a copy, just drop me (Lyn) an email and you'll get one of the first ones (I'll need to know if you're paying by Paypal or credit card and your mailing address and phone number).

If you'd like a digital download version (as a PDF) I've posted it on the Patternfish site. I'm also working on a "mobile" friendly version to work on mobile devices such as iPads*, phones and tablets and hope it will be available within a few days.
(* the current version does work fine on an iPad.)

If you've not been following Deb's blog entries over the past year (actually she's been hard at work on this for the past 18 months and Robin Hunter has been involved for nearly a year) this is a terrific book for knitting Plus sized cardigans from the Top Down. As one of the first people downloading the book from Patternfish said:

"At last..a much needed book/clear tutorial on raglan cardigans for the Ample Plus size community!
Very clear step by step instructions on how to make modifications for sleeve width/length,hems and ribbings,collars,waist/hip and bust shaping ... all the options are clearly presented.

OH! DID I MENTION THAT THE CHARTS ARE ALSO WRITTEN OUT FOR THOSE OF US WHO ARE CHART CHALLENGED?????

Thanks Deb for another fine publication."

Cheers & have fun,
-Lyn

PS If you're a store interested in carrying the book - in Canada just email me, Gemini Fibres or Infiknit; in the US Barb from Up North Fiber Art Supply is our US distributor along with Unicorn & Royal Publications.

A-Line Cardigans

When Deb wrote "Morgan's Cardigan" for our Teens & Tweens book, we had no idea how popular that cardigan was going to be! Morgan (Deb's daughter) was more than pleased with her cropped sleeve version and I loved wearing the largest size to shows. However, at every show I wore it I kept on hearing "oh, love that cardigan but I'd need it in a larger size".

"Morgan's Cardigan" (largest size)
and the "A-Line" Cardigan (small).

So, after me repeating this to Deb several times, she re-wrote the cardigan in adult sizes - and it's lovely! It's called the A-Line Cardigan #624 and here it is on the left. It's in worsted weight yarn so a fairly quick knit and very versatile.
I can tell you, from personal wear, that this is a terrific cardigan and I wear it a lot! You can wear it with jeans, with nice pants or a skirt for a dressier look and it looks great over a dress as well.
I'm just starting a second one for me in a lime green merino from Abuelita Yarns (I like this yarn so much we're going to be carrying it ourselves).
The three-quarter length sleeves, as shown, work perfectly for me but you can have it as a cap sleeve or a long sleeve - whichever you prefer! The lengths are written as petite, average or tall but, again, you can knit whichever length suits.
It's on Patternfish for download.
But that is not the end! Deb got quite a number of emails asking about re-sizing the cardigan to Plus sizes.

Here is our friend Jennifer, in her cardigan
 that Deb knit for her.

After doing some research and talking to a number of interested knitters in the plus size range, she's re-written the cardigan to Plus sizes from 1X to 5X. The A-Line PLUS Cardigan #625 has the same sleeve and length options along with additional fitting options for the fuller figure.
You can download the pattern from Patternfish here.
I believe there's a KAL (Knit-A-Long) being organised for the A-Line PLUS but I'll let Deb fill you in on that.
Deb's been doing (as you know if you've been keeping up with the blog) a lot of research on plus sizing and has been getting a lot of input from Julie. It's been really interesting to hear her work through the fitting options and design challenges. Look out for the results next year in book form!
-Lyn

We're off to TNNA!

Deb and I are off to the TNNA show today with our new book: NEED A BABY CARDIGAN?

Super cute baby in a pretty cardigan! This new book is the third in the "Need A ... " series of books. The first two were Need A Hat? and Need A Sock? This series is a "multi-gauge" approach to each topic. So, for example, the new Need A Baby Cardigan? provides you with a range of cardigans (with colour, textures & lace) in 4 sizes (newborn to 18 months) in NINE (yes, 9!) gauges from sock yarn right up to chunky weight.
We'll be providing support and taking orders with Barb from Up North Fiber Arts Supply, our U.S. Distributor. Here's another shot of the cutie from the book:

-Lyn

Could the numbers I had worked out for the Baby booklet work for an adult sweater? I decided to knit an adult size and see.

I think it turned out very well. Using chunky weight Northern Lights I worked the numbers for the newborn size in sock weight yarn. I did some calculations to decide that that size would give me the neckband measurment I would like. I made some modifications. I cast on 3" at the underarms, put in waist shaping and made it short sleeved. Now I have to find some buttons which match this gorgeous new Apricot colour of Northern Lights.

Isn't gauge a wonderful thing? With a change of gauge you can take the numbers for a sock weight newborn sweater and make an adult sized sweater, amazing.
-Deb

Sizing is a challenge to designers writing patterns. And I agree with Sharon (last post comment) that a plus sized pattern should include bust darts, etc to make the fit better. The added challenge for working from the top down is to get the number of stitches needed for the body without huge sleeves and a deep yoke. I have been experimenting with these ideas behind the scenes for a while and am almost convinced I could take on the challenge. I have been working up to it and now have a couple of plus sized women who will help with the sizing and garment knitting.

I get asked about resizing, especially for childrens' patterns, quite often. Generally I suggest a change of yarn. Working the sweater in a different gauge of yarn will make the sweater bigger (thicker yarn) or smaller (finer yarn). This works if the size needed doesn't stray too far past the size the pattern is written for because the change of size is proportional. If the change of gauge makes the sweater body 10% bigger then it is 10% bigger everywhere. The sleeves, neck opening, cuffs, etc are all 10% bigger. Up-sizing for plus sizes this way doesn't work as well. The change of gauge doesn't account for the smaller changes in the back of neck measurement and the sleeve width as you work the larger change in body size. Complicated! That is why I think dedicated patterns for sets of sizes work best and the up-sizing of smaller patterns doesn't work as well. But that brings us back to the small number of plus sized patterns available. Around and around we go. I'll use this as a push to get some of my ideas fine-tuned and down on paper.

Have you had success up-sizing patterns?
Deb

Need A Hat?

Yes, it's here! Hot Off the Press!!

After a fair bit of technical hair-pulling the booklets arrived Thursday afternoon and Sophy and I immediately packed them up and shipped them to Sturbridge, MA, for me to sell at the trade show next week (and hopefully for Deb to show and sell when she does her classes at Reba's store The Fiber Loft in Harvard, MA). On Friday we sent off our first store shipment to Diane of Georgetown Knitting & Crafts. Karen, of SheepStrings in Dwight ON, stopped to pick up copies to take to the Knitters Frolic Show in Toronto and for Miko and Jennifer at The Purple Purl.

As an interesting aside, Karen stopped by my house on the way home from doing the show (mainly to get fed I think) and told me that people had trouble believing that they could use ANY yarn for ANY hat in the booklet as much as Karen assured them they could (Karen is one of the designers in the book, see page 45, hat #10 so she knew this was true, lol). They bought the booklet on faith ... and hope. I think they'll be pleased.

I've put more detail and bigger pictures on the Cabin Fever web site if you want to go have a look!

-Lynda

Just wanted to update with an email comment from Diane:

Hi Lynda and Debbie,
Seeing I am the first store to receive your new hat book - I will be the first to comment - What a great book!!! I think there is a hat there for everyone!! Good job!! I bet you do not ever want to knit another hat for a long time!!
Diane
Diane & Bob CrawfordGeorgetown Yarn & Crafts

170 Guelph St.Georgetown,

ON L7G 4A7Phone: 905-877-1521

Fax: 905-877-3614

knitting@cogeco.ca

http://www.canknit.com/members/dcrawford.html

Shrug #2

So here is the 2nd attempt at a shrug for the movie premiere. I was very pleased as it fit! I used our Cabin Fever Cotton Tweed DK in black, and loosely based the structure on Deb's Basic Aran V-Neck sweater from our "Button Up Your Top Down" book. I used the needles appropriate for me for the aran weight (ie 4.5mm/US7) and, as I'm quite a loose knitter, I ended up with a gauge even slightly more than aran. You can see that it's fairly plain with a stocking stitch body and a 2 x 2 rib for the neckline and cuffs. I didn't have to do any "patternwork" as the texture and flecking of the tweed worked very well. The sleeves are a tiny bit shorter than I was thinking of but I was running out of time!! (I got the shrug done and buttons sewn on 20 minutes before I had to leave to drive to Toronto - that's cutting it fine!)

I also used this as an exercise to try "knitting backwards". This is where you don't purl. When you come to the end of the knit row you DON'T TURN, you just knit backwards across the row. Very cool. Slower of course than purling but it worked! And I was surprised to see how even the gauge was.

Oh, and here's a picture of the "red carpet". : )

Lynda

Amy's Vest

I was just tossing around subjects for this blog, I am getting ready to go to Baltimore for the Stitches Fair and rather distracted and restless as a result, when I read a comment by Amy. She wants to knit an adult vest based on the Playtime Vest (ages 4 - 10 year olds) (see http://www.cabinfever.ca/ under Patterns and Kits.

Here is our sample from the CabinFever shop.

You CAN take a pattern which is entirely the wrong size and work it in a different wool for yourself. In general you are following the original pattern. But the particulars are up to you when you do the switch.

The whole thing is based on your new gauge. So do a square with the appropriate needles for your wool and count how many stitches you are getting in 1" (count the fractions of stitches). You might be getting 4 1/4 sts = 1". Use this number as your gauge and then when you work out the numbers for the vest change any fractions to a whole number larger or smaller, your choice.

Measure your bust and decide how much ease you are adding. Multiply the number of stitches in 1" (above) by the final measurement you've decided on. For example: If I want a 42" vest and I get 4 1/4 sts per inch then 42" x 4.25 sts = 178.5 sts for the vest body. Round off to 178 sts.

I would follow the basic instructions for the vest substituting your own numbers. If the pattern says to cast on with a smaller needle - cast on with a needle 2 sizes smaller than your body sized needle. Work the body.

This pattern has armholes bordered by 5 stitches in garter stitch. Keep a close eye on the photo because the garter stitch edging starts before you split the knitting into the front, back, front. As long as the garter stitch border when you start is centred over where the bottom of your armhole will be, you'll be fine. But check the proportions. A 5 stitch garter border on your armholes will look different than they would on a child's vest. This is where your judgement comes in. You'll need to widen the bottom cast off of the armhole so that the shoulders come in to where you are placing them. Or else work shaping beside the garter stitch border to bring the armholes in to where the shoulder should be.

The other spot to watch is the back of neck. Measure the back of your neck and add an inch or two to accommodate the border you are going to work later, multiply by your no. of sts in 1" and work the back so that this is the number of stitches left for the back of neck. On the Fronts, work the V-neck shaping until you will have the same no. of stitches for the shoulders that match the back and work straight up.

I am still rather disjointed here. What I might suggest is that you work up the small size and then you can see what is involved in the pattern. You will have a better idea of the changes you will need to make.

It's not as hard as it seems. You have to look as you go and make the adjustments you think will give you what you envision. I would advise making a schematic of a vest (just a simple drawing will help a lot) and measuring a vest you own to get the armhole depth and back of neck measurement.

Check, check, check as you knit so you can see how it's going to look. I think this is a great project for changing gauge and size.

This is your mission if you decide to take it. This message will NOT destruct in 5 seconds. Good Luck Amy,

-Deb