Make your Raglan Sleeve Bigger or Smaller

Top Down Raglan sweaters are infinitely adjustable. An often neglected part of the sweater are the sleeves and sleeves seem to be one of the important parts of a garment that quite a few knitters need to adjust. It's quite simple on a Raglan Top Down to make your sleeves bigger or smaller than the pattern is going to give you for your size.

I learned quite a few new things through working on the Need A Plus Cardigan book and the Need A Circular Yoke book. Here's one important fact: your actual bust measurement (taken with a tape measure) doesn't necessarily indicate the size of your arms. If you have a large bust it does not automatically follow that you have large arms and vice versa. Wow, big news.

This means it's important to check your measurements against the pattern schematic.

Measure your actual bust and your actual upper arm with a tape measure.
Then add the amount of ease to the bust measurement you like (standard bust ease would be 3"/8cm).
Add approximately half that ease to your arm (1 1/2"/4cm). The amount of ease you like totally depends on personal preference of course. Maybe you like tight sleeves or extra loose sleeves. Measure the sleeves of some sweaters that you wear. I bet you'll find a wide range of sleeve width.

Find your closest Finished Size on this schematic and see if the sleeve is going to be the correct finished size for you.
Example:  actual bust measurement 39" + 3" of ease = 42" finished body
actual arm measurement 13" + 2" of ease = 15" finished sleeve  (I like 2" of sleeve ease on a cardigan.)

I would knit the 41" sweater because it's the closest size. But I want a 15" sleeve (my personal preference). The stitch numbers in this pattern will only give me a 14" sleeve. What to do?!

The place to make an adjustment is as you approach the bottom of the yoke. No one will see any adjustment you make here. Begin the pattern from the Top as written and then when you are closer to the bottom of the yoke, begin to think of your sleeves as separate parts of your garment. How would you like them to fit compared to the schematic. Would your ideal sleeve be a little bigger or a little smaller than the sleeve the pattern is going to give you.

Bigger Sleeve: Let's say I want the sleeve to be 1" bigger than this pattern is going to give me. For my gauge, say I need 6 more stitches (even number) on the sleeve. I work the yoke as written until I have 6 LESS stitches on my sleeve than the pattern says I should have at the bottom of the yoke. (This also totally works if you need the sleeve to be bigger by more than 1". Really it does.)

Bottom of Yoke before Divide Row: the pattern says I should have 56 sts on sleeve.
I'm going to stop when I have 50 sts (56 - 6 = 50 sts)

Now I'm going to work an extra increase right beside the regular Raglan increase, on both sides of my sleeve and work the regular Raglan increases on the Fronts and Back as written, to the bottom of the yoke.
On my sleeve: slip Marker, K1, work the regular Raglan YO increase, K1, work M1L (extra increase), work to 2 stitches before the Raglan Marker on the far side of sleeve, work M1R, K1, work regular Raglan increase, K1, slip Marker. You have increased 4 stitches on the sleeve in this row, the 2 regular Raglan increases + 2 extra increases. Repeat this until you have 6 extra stitches on the sleeve, 3 extra sts on each side of the sleeve.  (56 + 6 = 62 sts on sleeve). Ta, da, an extra inch added to my sleeves.
M1L: increase of 1 stitch: With Left needle, lift the running thread between the stitch just knit and the next stitch, from front to back and knit into the back of the resulting loop.
M1R: increase of 1 stitch: With Left needle, lift the running thread between the stitch just knit and the next stitch, from back to front and knit into the front of the resulting loop.

Here's a little sample I knit with YO increases and extra M1 increases beside them. You can hardly see those extra increases!

But let's say the sleeve as written will be too big for you. What then. This is even easier!
Smaller Sleeve: If you need your sleeve to be 1" smaller, then when you have 1" LESS stitches on your sleeve than the pattern calls for at the bottom of the yoke, you just STOP INCREASING on the sleeve. Yes, just stop. As easy as that. Continue to work the regular Raglan increases on the Fronts and Back. (This also works for knitters who need a sleeve several inches smaller.)

Example: 1" smaller sleeve: At bottom of yoke the pattern calls for 56 sts in my sleeve. I'm going to work the yoke as usual until I have 6 sts LESS (1" worth of stitches in my gauge, even number) on my sleeve. Then I'm going to stop increasing on my sleeves as I continue to work the regular Raglan increases on the Fronts and Back, to the bottom of the yoke.

Bottom of Yoke Before Divide Row: Pattern calls for 56 sts on sleeve.
I'm going to stop at 50 sts (56 - 6 = 50 sts). That will give me a sleeve that's 1" smaller than schematic.

Now continue to work increases on Fronts and Back and simply knit across the sleeve stitches. I suggest putting a safety pin in the fabric of your sleeves at either edge to remind yourself that you are only working across sleeve stitches without any further increases. It's easy to continue on autopilot and forget. Experience speaking here.

I stopped increasing on the sleeve 4 stitches before the bottom of this yoke and continued the YO increases on the body. The sleeve takes a dive into the underarm which is a great advantage.

I know, I know, some numbers are involved but not many. Have you tried making this adjustment? How did it work for you?
A good fitting sleeve will make all the difference to how your sweater fits.
More FIT blogs: Go to Where is My Waist. ; Go to Ease, how much?
-Deb

Decision week

Kathy, one of the students in my Mittlets by Formula class, reminded me that I haven't written my blog in several weeks and she was checking. So here I am, thanks for the kick in the ... I needed it.

I get mired in projects that are partly done and can't seem to find my way out. My Blue is stalled. I can't decide if it's long enough. I'm going to make a decision this week and stick to it.

It looks long enough to me but trying it on is the test and I've done that several times which usually means I'm close or waaaay off and don't want to believe it.  I really like the Back.

Done in Cotton Tweed, Just Navy. I love this dark, dark navy. Much darker than photo shows.

And then to get ahead of the season I started a summer knit. A circular yoke following the Need A Circular Yoke numbers, in Saucon Fingering (cotton/acrylic) with a 3.50mm needle to get 6 sts = 1".  (It's really Cherry red, I don't know how the camera makes it pink.) 
The yoke has a mosaic colour pattern. I really enjoyed the affect. It's great to only have to work with one colour at a time and get a great two-colour affect.

Down to the bottom of the bust now. I'm putting in a line of purple and going to work out some sort of columns of increases down the front and back. Another decisions to make.

And because these are bigger projects I had to start something smaller to carry around with me. I'm calling them Catch The Wave Socks. They are surprisingly easy to pick up and put down again. That's the beauty of stitch patterns that work the same every round. Very little angst about which round I'm on. Who needs more angst?

Decision week. Do you have to make some this week?

-Deb

Day 10: Boredom is Good

How can being bored be a good thing? It can make you a better knitter, that how.

• Learn a New Method:  I have been working on a Short Row cowl which is taking rather a long time to knit. Because I was bored I started looking on the internet for at all the ways there are to knit short rows. I can now work 6 types of short rows and did just that in my project. Not bored anymore.

• Decorate the Sides:  If you have miles and miles of stockinette stitch to work in the Body of your sweater, consider working a stitch pattern in a panel at each of the sides. Not bored any more. Side Pattern Vest

• Better Borders:  If you're working down your Top Down sweater and need something to keep you going, look through your stitch dictionary and find a really fantastic stitch pattern for the Bottom Border and the Cuffs. Worked a Slip Stitch pattern for a ShirtTail bottom border (from the Need A Circular Yoke book). Not bored any more.

• Knit Theme Socks:  Knit socks a lot? Looking for a cool stitch pattern to put in your next pair? Look through your Stitch Dictionary with someone or something in mind. What stitch pattern reminds me of my grandson? Or which stitch pattern represents Marriage, Life, Winter Fun, the Beach to me. These remind me of Fall, Pine Cone Socks.

Get bored and see what happens,
Deb

Steek Set-Up for cutting

I've been asked about converting the pullovers in the Need A Circular Yoke book into cardigans. If you're considering working colourwork for a caridgan, steeks, in my humble opinion, are the way to go. I knit a capelet with a steek so it can be cut open down the centre Front and a buttonband picked up and worked.

 

I'm going to sew the steek over the weekend. This is the plan. Here is my 5 stitch steek worked in a checkerboard pattern with the 2 colours.

 

I'm going to sew along the pink lines. There will be two lines of sewing close together up stitch#2 and stitch#4.

 

And then I will cut along the turquoise line, down the centre of stitch#3.

I will pick up for my buttonbands along the black lines, along the outside of stitch#1 and far side of stitch#5. Right now I'm just contemplating since the capelet is drying after blocking. On Sunday I cut! Woo hoo.
Deb

One Step Further Away From the Pattern

I've decided that I wanted to add a little more lace work to my latest Circular Yoke. It's turning out to be lots of fun.

I'm adding lace down the sides. I cast on 16 sts at the Divide Round for the underarm cast on. Perfect for adding 2 x 8st lace pattern I used in the yoke. If you cast on more or less than 16 sts you can still work out where to put 2 repeats of the pattern in. It certainly adds quite a bit of interest to the knitting of the body. I think a twist or knit and purl pattern would work just as well.

I knit every round until I was below my bra since I don't always wear a beige coloured bra and didn't want it to show through the lace. One less decision to make when I get dressed is a good thing, ha, ha.
Deb
Thanks Karen, Liz & t_a for your thoughtful remarks. It's great to know I'm not alone in the two steps forward, one step back approach but always moving forward. It's a journey as well as an adventure!

Think Inside the Box

Do you like that phrase "think outside the box"? I must admit that I don't. I once heard someone say that outside the box is a lonely place. It's the place for geniuses. Geniuses think up weird and wonderful stuff and then wait for the rest of us to catch up. Sometimes we do and often we don't.

On the other hand, the centre of the box is a very safe place. It's where lots and lots of people are and never venture away from. Safe if great lots of the time. But sometimes we can get stale there. It's fantastic knitting when you love what you're seeing in the photo or you're stressed in other areas of your life and need something to turn out right. I do it myself from time to time.

But what if we ventured closer to the outside edge of the box? That's where interesting things can happen. You might add in a stitch pattern you made up yourself. I bet it would look great. Or exaggerate some feature of the sweater, like the shaping. How about a really, really wide A-line? Or take a chance and pinch in that waist one more inch. How about an assymetrical bottom border just for the fun of it. It might surprise you how good it can look. Not quite knowing the outcome is a little scary but it certainly adds a little spice to your knitting and possibly a new "look" to your sweater wardrobe.

I'm hoping that the Need A Circular Yoke book takes you closer to the outside of the box. All the numbers are there but the decisions are yours. If you're taking on the challenge of putting together your own sweater I applaud you. I'm glad you're coming on the ride. Join us at Need A Circular Yoke KAL for some company along the journey, advice and answers to any questions.

Add some spice,
Deb
P.S. Thanks Sharon & t_a. I truely appreciate your encouragement.

NEW Need A Circular Yoke is ready.

It's official, the NEW Need A Circular Yoke book is ready. We're very excited.
The pdf ebook is available on Patternfish
and a printed copy can be ordered by email: info@cabinfever.ca

My thought behind this book was to give you all the information you would need to be a small "d" designer yourself.  Really, I know you can all do it. All the stitch numbers are worked out. It's my  particular pleasure to do this for you.

Do you remember those mix and match children's books where you can have the head of a rooster and the body of a camel with the feet of a duck? This book works sort of like that (your sweater will not end up to be a strange animal, I promise). One step at a time will make a unique sweater that is your alone. Which neckband would I like? Will I knit the yoke with lace or textured (knit & purl) sts? What length of sleeve this time? How about a shirttail bottom border? You can wait and decide as you knit along. That's the fun part. I've made 4 sweaters now and have 2 more on the needles. They are all different. Maybe I'll make just one more and this time . . .

Deb

Two Yokes going at the same time

I'm knitting two circular yokes and am in exactly the same spot on both of them.

Bust shaping (bust dart) is finished on both.

 On the purple one I'm knitting straight to the waist and then I'm going to do the hip shaping I need.

I'm a little short of yarn for the orange one so I'm trying to decide what to do with a shorty top. It may only come to my waist. Not my usual length at all. Got any suggestions?
Deb
P.S. t_a This is Hempton, a cotton, hemp, modal blend. Very nice to knit with. I think it will be lovely to wear. The purple is Cotton Tweed as you had spotted.

Do Over x 2

I took everyone's advice. Liz suggested that I take a break which I did. Today I made my decision to start again just like Laurie and Sharon recommended. I know it would have been one of those sweaters that sits in my drawer and doesn't get worn often. One of the "when I loose 20 pounds, I'll wear this" kind of sweater.

Now I've started again with a needle two sizes smaller. I'm very happy with the new tighter fabric. I used a different lace pattern this time and am contemplating doing a second Band of Pattern in another lace pattern. I don't have to decide yet. One decision at a time. But I must admit I haven't knit a top on such a small needle before. The 3.25mm (U.S.3) needle seems pretty tiny. Could be a journey.

I'm so into this starting over thing, that I started the purple sweater over too. This one I'm writing up as a "Simple" version leaflet, based on the circular yokes from the new Need A Circular Yoke book. It will still include Bust Shaping which may not entirely qualify under the Simple title but I think it greatly improves the fit.

By the way, the Circular Yoke book went to the printers today, yay, yay, yay, happy dance. They'll have it for 14 days or so, as they print the covers and lots of books for us. I'ts very exciting to be on the eve of a newly published book.
Deb
P.S. Brenda, I'll be doing my usual best at modeling these when they're done! Tee, hee.

Back from TNNA, new patterns coming up

The TNNA show is the big trade show for our industry. Although we're not allowed to take photos I did sneak one of Eleanor from Kraemer Yarns wearing one of sweaters from the Need A Circular Yoke book in Northern Lights chunky.

Although the knitting industry is still moving along it has a little limp in it's walk. But we, at Cabin Fever, are looking forward to bringing out a brand new worsted wool this fall, yay. In the mean time we haven't been idle. There will be new patterns coming out soon.

Beware, projects in half-baked condition. If you can't stomach them, turn your eyes away!

I started one more pullover for the new Need A Circular Yoke? book. It's a summer top (it's actually orange in colour) with a scoop neck in Hempton by Lanaknits, a cotton/hemp blend.
We're busy in edit mode now. The end (June publication date) is in sight.

Only the sleeves to go on this one, another sweater for the CircYoke book. It's obviously long sleeved or will be soon, in Aran weight Tuffy by Briggs and Little.

A new sock pattern. This one is fun and easy to carry around which I've been doing for a while. This is my second, no third, pair of these. Time to get it written up. It's in Saucon Fingering, a cotton/acrylic blend. Good for spring wearing with sandals.

A second new sock pattern from the cuff down with an interesting stitch pattern. I really enjoy knitting this one although it's not a 'carry around' project. It's in hand-painted stash yarn which is showing the pattern very well.

And just because a woman can't be working all the time I've indulged myself by knitting a short row scarf just for the fun of it. And, yes, those are really straight needles! Something a little different for me but different is good right? Also dug in the my stash for yarn for this, don't you love the colour? I do. I didn't follow the numbers for the pattern or use the weight of yarn it called for so I'm not going to give a link since I strayed rather badly from the original pattern. There are lots of short row scarf patterns to choose from and they're all fun to knit. I'm searching for a new one since I'm rather taken with them at the moment.

I obviously have lots of knitting to do, gotta go.
Deb

Shirttail

I'm trying to knit my sweaters a little shorter these days. I, along with some of you I'm sure, knit most of my sweaters to the length that will cover parts of myself that I'm not in love with. So this one from the Need A Circular Yoke book (coming out in June) is a tiny bit shorter than usual and has a ShirtTail bottom border. It's worked with short rows and gives a gentle curve to the bottom border.

Fuzzy bathroom mirror shot of sweater in progress. (Only knitters can appreciate this type of photo, at least I hope you will.) Now that I look at it, it's not all that short!

Sleeves next.
-Deb

Preparing Briggs & Little wool

I've started another Circular Yoke. This is my #4 sweater from the upcoming Need A Circular Yoke book. Another testknit. I'm going to try the Shirttail bottom border this time. I should have it done by next week.
I'm using Briggs & Little Tuffy. One of my favourite wools. It takes some prep work but I know this sweater will last. I'm still wearing a B&L sweater I knit in the year 2000!

You can see that this wool has little bits of vegetative matter in it. B&L don't do a chemical burn to get rid of it. Most of the straw falls out during the process of spinning but there is still quite a bit left in the wool.  I spent some time last night picking it out.

I know it would seem a pain to do this but I feel like I'm part of the process. I didn't raise the sheep or spin the wool but I have cleaned it up. The last necessary step before producing a clean ball of wool for knitting.

B&L and I made this possible. A tag team effort.

-Deb

Do you have favourite stitch patterns that you come back to over and over? In the new book you get to choose which stitch patterns you use for your Bands of Pattern work. One of my favourites is any stitch pattern with twisted stitches. These are 2 stitch cables which do not require a cable needle, Yay. They make a raised design on a stocking stitch background which is very effective. I could work whole sweaters using these little tiny cables and be quite a happy knitter.

 I work them like this:
TR (twist right):  knit two stitches together and without taking the stitches off the needle, knit the first stitch again. Take both stitches off the needle. This is really easy to do.
TL (twist left):  knit into the back of the second stitch and without taking the stitches off the needle, knit into the first stitch. Take both stitches off the needle.
And here's a new sock pattern I'm working on. It will be up as soon as I can finish this sock. Lots of twisting on this one. I'm calling in Pine Cone Socks.



Have you used these little cables?
-Deb

We took some photos of the Circular Yoke sweaters for the upcoming book. Early days still but I'll post some photos over the next couple of weeks so you can see how it's shaping up. There will be colourwork:

 

This is a traditional style worked in Northern Lights Chunky weight wool, High neck, 1 Band of Pattern and Raglan shaping worked below the patterning to finish the Yoke. The neckband stitch pattern is the same as the Transition Bands above and below the colourwork. It's almost done, needs some more length on the bottom and then to the blocking board.

 

Here's me in my A-line tunic with 3 Bands of Pattern this time, no raglan shaping and cap sleeves. Worked in Cotton Tweed DK weight yarn with Garter Stitch neckband and Transition Bands (worked between Bands of Pattern).

This circular yoke has a Scoop Neck and 2 Bands of Pattern, one worked in lace and one worked in colour. Interesting isn't it.
There's more to come, stay tuned,
-Deb

Bust Shaping

Good question Brenda (from the comments). I continue to look for ideas for Bust Shaping of women's garments. The idea that the Front should be wider than the back seems to make soooo much sense.
In the Need A Plus Cardigan? book we worked Bust Increases on the Fronts below the Divide so that they look like this. The Bust Increases are worked every other row.

For the pullover I have found that I can increase every round and there is room for more increases since it is a flatter dart.

It's interesting to discover more ways to work for a better Fit.
-Deb
P.S. What do you think, Brenda?
T_A, thanks for your lovely comments. I hope there will be some more information for you in the upcoming book. It's really coming along and I'll be posting some more photos as we finish up some more knitting.

Move the Markers to Adjust Sleeves and Body

I'm just writing the custom fit section of the new book Need A Circular Yoke (which should be ready in June). I had an idea for an easy adjustment to get a better fitting sleeve. Thinking out loud here so please wade in with your opinion.

After working the circular yoke, we come to the Great Divide where you put the sleeve stitches on spare yarn to work later and cast on underarm stitches so you can carry on with the Body. You will have placed Markers to delineate the Back, Sleeves and Front for the Divide Round.

Let's say you really wanted a sleeve that is 1" wider than the schematic indicates. You could move your sleeve Markers out at the sides 1/2" on each side to make the sleeve wider when you work the Divide Round.

This makes the Back and Front narrower. Additional width (add 1" on each side of the Front) could be made up on the Front with the Bust Increases to the correct number of Body stitches. The Back would remain narrower.

The new increases in this book give a flater line of Bust Increases which mean you could easily work an extra inch in the bust shaping.
What do you think? Would this work?
-Deb

Colour Knitting

This is the first colour knitting I've done in a very long time. It reminds me that skills can get pretty rusty. I do colour knitting in the two-handed method and since I am a Continental knitter my off-hand is my right hand working in the English throwing style of knitting. I do admire those of you who can do it so effortlessly because I am struggling a bit to get it back. This is yet another options in the Need A Circular Yoke book which we are working on now.

As I proceed I do have some 2-handed colour knitting tips:
1. Use a larger knitting for colourwork rows(rounds) if your fabric tends to pull in.
2. Always use your "good hand" for the background colour. This maintains a good sturdy background fabric and stops you from switching hands part way through your project. If you've ever done this you know it makes the fabric look very different (ask me how I know!).
3. Each time you change colour push the stitches just worked down the Right needle. This will make your floats nice and long.

Do you have any other suggestions to add?
Deb

Circular Yoke II

Second Circular Yoke sample. This one is for the same sized person, me, but in finer yarn. This is worked with Cotton Tweed DK weight yarn and lace stitch patterns. Because this yoke is in finer yarn, with more rows per inch, I can fit 2 Bands of Pattern in. It also has a larger neck opening with a ribbed pattern which I would also put on the cuffs and bottom edge.

Same Basic Circular Yoke sweater as in the last post, different look. I think I'm going to like wearing this one. What do you think?

-Deb